Field Notes: Two Weeks in Bordeaux
Experiencing Autumn in
Bordeaux, France
One bright and sunny morning in the south of Spain, in September, I woke up dreaming of gray skies, crisp air, orange leaves, and old buildings and decided that France would be the perfect place to spend two weeks in October.
It would be my first time visiting France, and after spending three months learning how to order coffee and croissants in French, I was ecstatic about this idea. We immediately hopped on Airbnb to find a place to stay and before I knew it, we were picking up our rental car and ready to set off.
I love traveling in the off-season, when the crowds are thin and all the cafes have seating. Wandering the streets to find the quiet hideaways, the best coffee and cutest shops, learning the history and secrets of the cities like a local. Old stone buildings and streets bathed in golden light, all bundled up in my thick coat and scarf… it’s magic.
While you absolutely can see Bordeaux in a long weekend, when possible, we love slow travel. It allows us to really immerse ourselves in the culture of the place we’re visiting, avoiding over-populated areas for later, and spend time exploring areas that we initially missed.
Where We Stayed
Since our trip was very last minute, and we were planning to treat it more like part of our monthly rent rather than a vacation, we searched for an affordable place on Airbnb and found a really cute stay a short tram ride outside of the city. If we had been on vacation, I would have loved to stay at the Hôtel Singulier.
Our Foodie Recommendations
I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in terms of food. I’ve heard French food is incredible, and in my experience, it certainly was!
You definitely have to try the Canelés de Bordeaux, a small pastry that originated in the Bordeaux region. Personally, I didn’t enjoy them but I did appreciate how unique they were, and Matt absolutely loved them! I’m pretty sure he had one almost every day we were there.
We stopped into Books and Coffee hoping we could work on our laptops, since it looks very cute and cozy inside. Unfortunately, they didn’t have wifi, but we decided to stay and order some food anyways and I’m so glad we did! We ate the barley and butternut squash risotto soup, served with homemade bread, and it was the kind of perfect warm fall lunch one dreams of.
Pizzeria du Vieux Lavoir in Saint Emilion
We stopped here on a whim, after realizing the nearby restaurants were either closed due to the off-season, booked up, or a bit expensive for a quick bite. Saint Emilion very popular and on the more expensive side, so I definitely recommend doing a bit of research on where you want to eat before visiting, as well as making a reservation. That all said, our pizza was delicious and hit the spot for our cold and rainy lunch break.
Add this to your list for the best Chocolate Chip cookie you will ever eat! We stopped in here for something sweet and was shocked at how delicious these warm, fresh-from-the-oven cookies were. I think they’re about 4 euros each, but I promise, they are more than worth it.
We had about an hour until our dinner reservation when it started pouring rain, so we popped into La Douce Parenthése to take cover, and had a cup of tea each. The owner and employee were so sweet! We were the only two inside at this point, so we spent our time chatting with them. They had just pulled a bunch of cinnamon apple cookies out of the oven so not only was it warm and cozy, but it smelled incredible!
Le Michel’s
I went here exclusively for the French Onion Soup, because the pictures online looked delicious, and let me tell you – it was possibly the best onion soup I’ve ever had. Matt got the Bavette d’Aloyeau Aubrac, which is essentially steak and fries. We had a lovely evening sitting outside surrounded by locals and watching people pass by.
It took us a couple of days to discover this cafe, but it is the best place if you want to do some work on a laptop, as they offer public wifi (which is not common in Bordeaux!). They have a dedicated space for working, the owner is super nice, and, most importantly, they offer great coffee and pastries. I had a slice of Banana Bread and it was so good I’ve been dreaming of it ever since.
Our Favorite Things to Do
Watching the sunset over the water mirror
As I was researching what to do in Bordeaux, I kept reading about the water mirror, but never made it a priority to visit. One night right at sunset, as we were walking to our train stop to head home, I stumbled upon the water mirror and it was so beautiful. Overlooking one of the main plazas in Bordeaux, you’re able to enjoy the architecture in both reality and a golden reflection. Definitely worth a quick stop while in Bordeaux, and make your stop at sunset for some magical pictures.
A trip to Dune du Pilat & Arcachon
Possibly my favorite day of our Bordeaux trip we weren’t in Bordeaux! But this probably says more about me than the city. I felt like a kid playing all day while we rode bikes from Arcachon to the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. The bike ride was only about 45 minutes one-way, and we then strode along the beach to catch our breath while watching the waves crash into the rocks and sand. We then hiked to the top of the dune, which was exhausting but so worthwhile! Beautiful views, and the best part – running down the sandy hill.
This destination would be great for a family or for kids, as the rest of our day consisted of climbing up a “miniature Eiffel Tower”, wading into the ocean, eating ice cream in the cute seaside town, and strolling through the shops and park.
Medoc Route & A day trip to St. Emilion
One day we decided to drive along the Medoc route we had heard about, as it was sunny, and we thought it would be a great day to explore the chateau properties and walk through the vineyards (I’m a sucker for old French homes, and who doesn’t love to traipse through vineyards)? However, we totally messed this day up, as we went on a Sunday and all the Chateaus were closed. In the end we just drove around and went home, but I must say, this region is absolutely stunning, even in fall! The vineyards were various shades of green, yellow, and even pops of red, and the villages and chateaus we passed we lovely.
We spend a day in Saint Emilion, another small town everyone told us to visit, and it might be the cutest town I’ve ever stepped foot in. Cobblestone streets covered in yellow leaves, the old town is built upon a hill overlooking acres and acres of rolling hills and vineyards. This region was my absolute favorite, as just driving around in our car was fun. I will warn you though, St. Emilion is quite expensive!
Everything Else
Something we didn’t realize until a couple of days into our trip (and some Google searching) is that free wifi is not common in France, therefore, working on laptops in cafes and coffee shops is not ideal. We did go to our reliable Starbucks twice before discovering the cafe Verde Nero, which we absolutely loved and worked in the rest of the week.
Another thing I wasn’t expecting is that the city is a bit dirty, at least coming from Spain which has very clean cities. Although it wasn’t too bad, and we still totally love Bordeaux, there was a lot of dog poo on the stone streets so watch your step!
We started our trip not knowing what to expect. I had heard it was like a miniature Paris, and while I’ve yet to visit Paris, it did feel how I would imagine a traditional French city to feel. It had all the magic and fall vibes I was hoping for and more. Around every corner we discovered something new and something cute. While I don’t feel like I need to go back anytime soon, I loved every minute we were there.
If you’re looking for a romantic getaway, consider adding the Bordeaux region to your list.